Visitors to Italy prior to the 1880s would have a difficult
time relating to what passed for pizza at the time. Although the
pies had been made in the area for centuries, many ingredients
considered essential by modern Americans were absent. First of
all, tomatoes were not native to Europe. It was not until the
discovery of the Americas and the discovery of tomatoes that it
was even possible to add tomato sauce. Even then, it took many
years to convince the people that tomatoes were not poisonous. A
white sauce was used as a topping until the 17th century. Cheese
was not used at all until around 1889.
These Italian pies were not originally a specific food.
Instead, the flatbreads were used by bakers to test oven
temperatures. Rather than throw the pies away, enterprising
bakers sold them to the poor, who soon began to add tomato sauce
and seasonings. Soon, outdoor stands and bakeries had a popular
product. However, it remained a dish of the poor until around
1889. That was the year that a baker prepared a pie for Queen
Margherita. To emulate the colors of the Italian flag, Raffaele
Esposito used basil for the green, mozzarella for the white, and
tomatoes for the red. He named it after the queen, who
apparently was quite fond of it.
In America, pizza remained a dish popular in Italian
neighborhoods until after World War II. Returning soldiers who
had served in Italy brought back a fondness for the pies.
Gradually, pizzerias began to appear in neighborhoods other than
poor or ethnic areas.
Gennaro Lombardi, a grocer in New York City, is generally
credited with the first true pizzeria in the country. It is
believed to have opened in 1897. A full pie cost five cents, but
not everyone could afford that amount. He began selling slices,
with the size corresponding to the amount the patron could
afford.
Pizzerias remained primarily family-owned enterprises until the
chain restaurants appeared. Shakey's opened in California in
1954 and Pizza Hut began in Wichita, Kansas around 1958. Other
chains, such as Pizza Inn and Domino's, soon followed. However,
until the owners of the first Domino's decided to stake their
business on delivery, pies were still largely consumed on the
premises or picked up. Either way, the customer had a twenty to
thirty minute wait. Delivery allowed them to stay at home and
have the food brought to their doors.
Today, chains such as Papa John's, Mazzio's, Little Caesar's,
and Godfathers have joined the industry. Each has a slightly
different recipe and a different range of products. It is not
uncommon for customers to be able to purchase salads, pasta,
wings, and breadsticks at their local chain pizzeria.
The type of crust may generate more debate over the best pies
than the toppings. Some pizzerias use a thin, crispy crust that
is more akin to crackers than bread. Others prepare a thick
crust, baked in a pan. Everything in between the two extremes
can be found as well. Specialty crusts, such as a crust stuffed
with cheese have also appeared periodically.
Competition has led to price wars in some parts of the country.
There are locations where the price in 2011 was a good deal less
than it was a decade earlier. Prices have also been driven down
by advances in frozen pies that carry a lower cost.
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